Looks like the upper part of the valve stem broke?
I believe at it was hard to pump with the EDC, I applied too much torque on the head? Another issue I experienced at some point was the click valve stating open d when removing the pumpā¦
Good experiment though before my next ultra, a lot of learnings today!
After looking at the new Clik Extension Nozzle for Fumpa pumps, something clicked lol and I added the right angle Clik pumphead I put together for my now mostly unused floor pump, to my Elettrico inflator, and in tandem with the short swivel hose that comes with the inflator, its a very nice improvement in ease of use.
The presta adapters look good, may have to pick one up to use with my hiro chuck.
For TPU users, Continental TPU tubes have removable valve cores, the downside is the stem is plastic. The Pirelli Smartube TPU tube presta stem is glued in but it was pretty easy to get it out and replace it with a clik valve, if you have some laying around.
Regarding electric pumps, the Thinkrider one has a schraeder output so the clik adapter can be threaded in directly. Unfortunately it has a higher pitched noise then the Cycplus AS2 Pro and the LCD screen is ugly, but the size is almost the same.
I got the Fumpa hose elbow thing Clik Extension Nozzle for Fumpa pumps and even with that Iāve noticed the pressure immediately spikes to above the set pressure and the pump stops then slowly gets a real read. I can then press the start button again and maybe get a couple seconds of air before it stops.
Inflating works fine with my Vlair Recon or my Cyplus ultra, so I am very curious whatās up with my Fumpa Pro Fumpa Pro bike pump
anyone else had this issue?
We donāt, but we have the old Fumpa with a gauge but no preset pressure control or anything fancy like that. Ours works great. ![]()
Does anyone have any experience completely disassembling a click valve to remove dried sealant? Iāve tried the recommendations on clickās website for soaking it in IPA and a lubricant and flushing it with my air compressor. No luck
Is that a clog that has taken a reasonable amount of time to develop?
Having just converted my fleet to Clik Valves, I am considering trying tubeless with an upcoming pair of wheels, but I donāt want to have to deal too often with clogged valves. Iāll happily throw in a new Clik valve every six months but if itās required a lot more often than that, Iāll stick with tubes.
Yes. It took a while to develop. They are pretty good for not clogging, much better than presta. However you can disassemble a presta and not sure how or if you can do it with clik
Try agitating with isopropyl alcohol in a bottle. I would avoid a long soak and rinse promptly in case there are any incompatible internal rubber bits. Depending on the sealant, I would also try dish soap or acetone. Or if you have an ultrasonic cleanerā¦..
This is exactly my use case a few weeks ago. No issues changing over and Iām already loving the idea of being able to add sealant thru the valve stem rather than having to pop the bead when I had Fillmores. For context I have 5 bikes set up tubeless so the Fillmore system was a massive PITA at top up time.
Just remove the Clik valve and use boiling water to clean. Then put back in.
I add sealant directly through Fillmore valves and have had zero clogs. I use Orange Seal.
Iāve been running clik valves for a year or so. Had first sealant issue this week.
Pumped up rear tyre and when removed clik pump head valve was passing air.
Removed valve and found a little hard lump of sealant interfering with valve seat.
Picked it off and reinstalled valve. Inflated and held pressure no problem.
I donāt think any valve system is ever going to be perfect when using sealant.
Clik has been a lot less hassle than presta.
Ah yes very important distinction. I use Silca Ultimate and that seals the Fillmore. I believe itās the only sealant that does, but it is also the best at sealing large holes for that very reason. Josh Poertner did a Youtube explanation of this.
If you have the Silca sealant remover you could try that? Iāve had much better luck with Clik valves clogging less than presta if thatās any consolation.
Ah, that makes sense. When the newest version of the Silca sealant came out, I messaged Silca asking if it could be injected throw the Fillmore valve stem, and they said no.
The chat about pump adapters inspired me to work on my own. I was able to build a right-angle extension hose compatible with Muc-Off and CycPlus (maybe more?) electric inflators without any adapters in the middle. This gives me a lot of maneuverability when working on 20ā wheels.
I reused the hose barb and plastic ferrule from an original extension hose; some automotive hose in the garage; and a Lezyne chuck.
The tricky part is the hose because I wanted slightly more length and the original hose and barb are smaller than usual. It turns out they use Lezyne sizing, not the sizing expected by Clikās right angle pump head.
So, I had a wonky Clik valve that almost new condition but air wouldnāt pass through when pumping. So I decided to take it apart. I donāt remember exactly how I did it but I will say there is a correct side you pull from. I got it apart and was able to reassemble but the valve didnāt improve much. If I could find it Iāll try to get some photos.
Update on this problematic pump: The check valve mechanism had vibrated apart internally and started acting up with regular Presta valves. I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled and it now works properly with the Clik adapter (directly fitted), as others have mentioned.

