I have a Foundry Flyover with Sram Force AXS. I installed a Rotor 2INpower crank with Rotor 48/35 AXS compatible chainrings. I CANNOT get it to shit up into the big ring. The high limit screw seems okay:
Here’s video of it not shifting
I used the SRAM FD setup tool, I verified the chain length is correct, if I move the high limit further out it hits the crank. Also, the rings are brand new, so there shouldn’t be an issue there. Any help greatly appreciated!
Did it shift before the crankset swap? Can you measure the distance between big chainring and the crank? The rotor chainrings were never the pinnacle of shifting but usually they at least shift.
It shifted fine with a SRAM crankset. Which part of the chainring to the crank?
Do you have the spacer correctly installed that slots between the FD and the frame?
The FD is mounted on a clamp. I didn’t need any wedges with the SRAM crankset, do you think that would help with this?
When the FD pushes the chain over, the force requires can flex the FD back towards the frame, which leads to shifting issues, maybe not even able to get the chain in to the big ring. It could be that with the SRAM crankset it had enough ‘help’ from the chainring design, but it needs a bit more juice with the rotor.
The spacers stop the FD flexing under load, and are pretty much mandatory.
Cool, I’ll give that a shot! Any advice on choosing between wedges, or is it just trial and error?
Completely depends on you frame, you need to pick the one that fits snugly. I’d imagine there’s videos on youtube.
Tried all 3, still no change
Not helpful or a solution, but – I have had similar issues with setting up AXS front shifting with aftermarket chainrings in similar contexts.
Bike #1: M/L Ventum NS1, wanted to run a Dfour power meter with 110bcd with my sram group so purchased a set of 50-37T Rotor chainrings. Set the (D1) derailleur up multiple times with the sram tool but couldn’t get the derailleur to catch the chain when going little to big ring. Finally gave up after an unsuccessful visit to a trusted mechanic and installed sram chainrings with the same setup tool. No issues since.
Bike #2: 54cm Supersix with a Power2Max 4 bolt power meter with a 30mm spindle. Again, didn’t want to mess with bottom brackets/crankarms so I tried the same Rotor chainrings with a (D2) front derailleur. Shifting isn’t quite as fast/crisp as with the sram chainrings but reliable and no drops. Recently I needed to replace the bottom bracket, so decided to go with dub and installed the same DFour power meter on the Supersix. Didn’t touch the FD as I figured both the Power2Max and Dfour spiders would give the same (Shimano) chainline. Now it shifts in the stand but is about 50-50 on missing front shifts on the road, which is better than I could ever get with the Ventum. I am going to try to set up the FD with the sram tool again.
My conclusion (and bear in mind that I am a dunce) is that the aftermarket chainrings don’t shift as well natively as the sram rings and shrink the tolerance window for adjustments. Due to some frame geometry factor (chainstay length?) , some bikes shrink this more. Add in a power meter intended for a Shimano chainline that may be a millimeter or two off, and some bikes (the Ventum) just won’t work with some crank setups. Some bikes (the Supersix) may work if you’re willing to be patient, move spindle spacers around, etc.
The good news is that everyone seems to love the E1 stuff and it is depressing the prices of the older chainrings and spindle power meters…
edit – realized this is an old thread. my bad
Did you have any spacers on your previous crankset between the BB and the chainrings? Likely a 1mm spacer here would shift the chainrings over enough to shift into the big ring.
Sorry, thought the chainrings had to go outboard; now see they need to move inboard. I’m assuming there are no spacers between the BB and the chainring that can be moved to the non-drive side.
thanks! I have spacers to move so this is a really good idea ( I had set up according to the Sram instructions –3mm spacers on drive side). I had the Sram rings for bike #1 so I didn’t bother trying hard to troubleshoot. For bike #2 I will have to play a bit more.
