For MTB I am back to breaking the bead after the syringe on valve method blocked and exploded.
For road, I don’t see the point as my wife’s bike tyres needed cutting up and a mole clamp to remove. Then my TT bike needed multiple tape wraps and a huge amount of faff, even with a compressor.
Just don’t bother for road. TPU tubes are so much easier.
My Schwalbe bottle head is small enough to fit inside the valve opening after core removal.
I didn’t even know there were tubeless valves without removable cores. Why would you even use them? And why wouldn’t you change them?
Reserve’s Fillmore valves don’t have a removable core. They use a completely different design that is claimed to be less likely to get clogged with sealant, and that allows more airflow so you can seat beads without compressed air.
In my experience, the design works pretty well (in that I’m typically able to seat tires with just a floor pump, provided the tire and rim bead are clean and I’ve brushed the bead locks with a bit of soapy water). And I haven’t experienced clogs in the three years I’ve had them on my gravel bike. But the threads on the valves don’t play well with all threaded injector systems (and as I noted the plastic ones like Stan’s are complete shit and strip out), and without a removable core you can’t use a needle-style injector.
TL;DR there’s a lot I do like about Fillmore valves. They just don’t work with all sealant injection systems and I was asking people what they like.
Same. My injectors all get blocked and become a pain to use, this is much quicker and easier, and you can also just take it with you on ultras / bikepacking trips for extra puncture security.
I find them the best. Just don’t screw on too much and push valve into wheel.
FWIW, not all Presta valves have the same internal diameter. Reserve says that the internal diameter of the Fillmore valves is larger than that of a standard Presta valve on an inner tube or summat. I’ve found they work great for me w/ Orange Seal. Silca, though, says not to use their sealant with Fillmore valves.
I think whether it’s worth it or not depends on the user, tire sizes, and wheels. I can mount and remove my tires by hand, no cutting involved. They seat with a floor pump. As for maintaining them, I just set an alert on my computer to go off every 3 months, and then I check the status of the sealant/add some more. I’m not really experiencing any faff with my tubeless wheels and tires.
I use these same small bottles from Stans and other brands as they are sold with the small nozzle and squirt through the valve stem - I don’t have Fillmore valves, just presta and/or clik. . 
I say count yourself lucky that you can remove all your tyres by hand. 
I can do that with a lot of our tyres but I have some that need clamps to fight them off - especially the 35mm ones with inserts. Then I have some Giant wheels on my ~2013 XTC that are not officially tubeless rims but they work - except when I break the bead and need 4 hands to get the feckers to hook up again. I wish I didn’t have those wheels but can’t justify replacing them so I just know not to unseat the tyres on those wheels if I don’t have to..
It’s amazing that you can unmount tires by hand. I can mount tires without using tire lever, with some tires a bit more challenging than others, but I definitely need at least a tire lever to unmount the tire.
I have Fillmore valves on my Reserve 25|G gravel wheels. I have used them for two years with Orange Seal Endurance and about half the time when I needed to add sealant, I injected through the Fillmore valves. I have yet to clog the valves but I have encountered issue with sealant drying near the base of the valves, causing the poppet to not completely seal against the valve, resulting in a slight leak. Thankfully, the Fillmore valve can be easily serviced and each time that happens - it has happened twice - I just need to take it apart and clean the dried sealant off the poppet.
By hand I meant I didn’t half to use anything beyond levers to get tires on or off. I’ve not had to cut any tires to get them off, nor have I had any violent thoughts while mounting or removing tires. It wasn’t difficult process.
Straz funnel - It’s the back pressure from the tyre that typically keeps the sealant sitting there. Give the tyre (away from the valve) a little press with your thumb and you should see things move.
Either way, I too keep returning to the old Stan’s bottles. Old habits.
I use Effeto’s Caffélatex Injector with their Vegelatex and it works like a charm. Had some trouble with syringes when using other sealants but the Vegelatex flows quite well (I only need to actually press the syringe plunger for the last bit) and it makes it easy to measure the amount I use. I remove the plunger and pour it into the open back end of the syringe, that way it’s also easy to “reset” the pressure in the end so the sealant isnt being pushed back out. Works mostly without spills and the Vegelatex stuff is super easy to remove with water, so I can just rinse out the syringe afterwards.
You can buy new plastic tubes from Park Tool. They’re cheap, but shipping makes it a bit more $ than I would have liked (ask me how I know)
The syringes with the fancy handles and hard plastic bodies are best. They glide easily and don’t deform over time like the disposable ones tend to do. I remove the valve core (the reason I do not have Filmore valves - also I don’t see any benefit really), stick that little tube in, suck up all the remaining sealant to check how much is left, and replenish. It’s even easier than breaking the bead, plus it doesn’t risk losing the seal on those few super finicky tire / rim combos.
After use, I flush them with water and leave them filled. That way they don’t gunk up as easily.
Those syringes are available on Aliexpress - look for bird feeding syringes. I also use those for brake bleeding.
I have the funnel. I have several injectors. I have the small bottles.
All work if the sealant is thin. None are consistently reliable for the sealants I use most often, which can clog the valve stem more often than not. I have to wonder if a sealant doesn’t clog the stem, will it actually seal a cut?
Now I just unseat one side of the tire and do it once.
I rarely have issues reseating the bead with a floor pump as long as I remove the valve core first
I use stans race sealant (because of great puncture protection) and fillmore valves (because it makes tyre seating easier), so valve method is out. So it’s remove the bead, check and top up every few months method for me. I find the vittoria air liner tool makes unseating / removing tubeless tyres much much easier.
Simon
Your favorite sealant separated into these: Amazon.com