I’m 48 years young, I race in Master category races for fun and am looking at qualifying for UCI Worlds in 2027 for Road and Gravel. This is if the dates and time off work align.
I just did the Mallorca 312 on a rented bike. It was a Ridley with a higher stack than I’m used to. I usually ride a Giant Propel with an Aero Coach handlebar (the supernarrow one). The Ridley was fun to ride, but more importantly, it took good care of my lower back for 10 hours.
When I got back to the hotel, I saw a bike in the storage room that was built around the Factor Ostro Gravel. This led me to wonder why, and some AI and googling later, I found out that the frame is actually pretty good for road riding/racing, and a bit harsh for rough gravel.
I further looked at buying one and talked to the local importer, and he liked my idea and recommended the 1x13 XPLR groupset for road use. This made me at first say: “Hell NO, I want my 2-by, and Shimano!”
Then I started to think….
Then the questions started to arrive:
How is the XPLR groupset on the road?
How much do I lose in efficiency with SRAM vs Shimano?
How is the Factor Ostro Gravel actually on the road?
In a Road race environment?
Are there any other frames that I can use?
Is this stupid? Should I buy a standard roadbike and a used gravelbike for the same price?
What I thought in the beginning was an Ultegra crank and front shifter with GRX rear derailleur and shift between 52/36 -11/30 on the road and 50/34 - 11/36 on gravel. But now I’m thinking an XPLR and changing between 50 or 48 on the road and 46 og 44 on gravel.
I was looking at a Scott Addict RC 10 before this and I have a friend who may have a Scott Addict Gravel RC for sale at some point. I think this will be slightly more expensive than a frankenbuild, but…….
As someone who lives on two continents , I have a road bike (2x11 Ultegra) in one location and a gravel bike (XPLR 1x13) in the other. I cannot say I feel much compromised when doing road rides on the gravel bike. Having wind tunnel data for both bikes and rolling resistance measurements by bicyclerollingresistance.com I calculated that the only substantial difference actually comes from the tires (Continental GP5000 vs. Hutchinson Caracal Race). The jumps in gearing are not for everyone, but if you compare the XPLR cassette to a Sram 10-36, actually there is only one bigger jump, plus an additional cog.
I looked at the cogs and there are just a bigger difference when you look at the larger cogs. I ride an Ultegra 2x11 today and before looking at the jumps I thought I would miss the one gear up or down when riding “fast” on the road and just adjust for my perfect cadence.
There are certainly two types of gravel bikes at least. Race oriented, low cockpit, short wheelbase bikes and the more upright leisure couch rides. Pick your preference on the frame side, widest desirable tire width then figure out the drivetrain. Personally, doing more road than gravel, I’ll keep my 2x. YMMV..
Out of my price bracket but the BMC Kaius mentioned on Geek Warning sounded like a mean machine. Throwing road wheels on a bike that has clearance for 52 mm tires is also going to give you some very good aero at the front end.
Maybe look into Super Record X or Record X as the drivertrain. The cassette is 10-48, with 1-step jumps from 10-15. In theory, paired with a 48 or 50 chainring, it could be a viable 1x setup for road racing. Then, maybe swap to a 44 or 46 chainring for gravel racing and you’d have enough low end to save some energy and avoid blowing up on the climbs.
Gearing will always be the bugaboo of a 1-race bike quiver, imo. XPLR might work for some, but it’s far from a sure thing for everyone. Regardless of whether you go 1x or 2x, I would consider being ready to alter your front and/or rear gearing in addition to just changing wheels when you hop from one discipline to the other.
Regardless of where you fall on 1x vs 2x or SRAM vs Shimano, it’s hard to argue that 2x isn’t more adaptable, and that could be important for what it sounds like you’re looking to do.
I have a Factor Ostro Gravel with Force XPLR groupset. I’ve used it for gravel racing, but if I’m honest I like it even more for the road. I put 35mm slicks on it and it’s been great. It definitely feels a bit slower than my pure road bike (but sometimes ‘feel’ is deceptive). I woudln’t race on the road with it because the gearing isn’t right, but it’s been an amazingly diverse bike. With the 35mm tires on I can comfortably go on most reasonable surfaces (road, bike paths, gravel, a bit of singletrack, etc) and with gravel tires on I can go anywhere. The only thing I don’t like is that the rear will only take a 45mm tire, and what I want are 50’s.
You asked for one bike for both / and I just thought I’d share my experience
I wanted something fast so I built a gravel bike that was super similar geometry to my tarmac (albeit w some adjustments like Longer wheel base, higher BB and a slightly bigger fork / chain stays)
This was fine when 32mm tires were standard, and 35 slicks were as big as you’d go. Now everyone is running tires >40 and seemingly faster for doing so
So I’m left w a bike that is too “road like” for gravel .. and not fast enough to race on the road
If you’re looking to maximize performance for either sport, get 2 bikes
If you’re ok sub-optimizing either discipline, then a gravel bike (at whatever geo you like) with 2 sets of wheels will be awesome. I still ride mine almost always, except when I want to go fast
A friend is happy with the Aurum Gravel bike both on the road and on gravel. The new Orbea Terra Race looks like it might work.
I have done a few longer rides with road wheels on my Cinelli gravel, the most limiting was the gearing. Especially for racing, I would like a 52/11 or even 54/11 as largest gear on the road, while the 34/36 smallest gear is sometimes not enough on gravel.
Something like the Cervelo Áspero seems to me like it’ll work really well for both road and gravel. I think what you’d be giving up for either road or gravel with something like that is on the extremes. A few watts here or there and not something that would take you out of contention at all. A few others that “look” the part, at the least, and seem to have been designed to go plenty fast include the new batch of aero gravel bikes from Sea Otter, such as the Felt Breed, unreleased Factor One Gravel, and a new Argon18.
I have a Vitus Venon Evo, seems correctly labeled all-road, that I rode at Mid South gravel and have done some fast group rides with road wheels/tires. It’s not particularly aero, but I wouldn’t say it’s noticeably slower at all than my previous road bike (last gen disc brake Propel).
Feels like this next gen of gravel bikes either just released (new aero Felt Breed) or about to be (Ridley aero gravel, new Factor Ostro gravel, new Argon aero gravel, etc.) might be perfect for you. I can’t speak to gearing (not knowing, or caring to be honest lol, what Shimano’s options are off-road), but seems like all are going 1x, but now with much bigger chainring clearance than the present gen bikes that top out 46-48, maybe maybe a 50, so this gap might get closed).
But nobody asked the important question “What are the courses you will be riding at the WC?”
We saw Gravel WC courses which would be suitable for a Canyon Aeroad, ie flat an smooth gravel. Other gravel races will ask for a MTB like bike, ie >50 mm tires and a suspension fork (or a fully).
In 2027 the Worlds are all in France, like they where in Scottland. I don’t know if I will be able to ride both because of the scheduel. And I don’t know anything about the route.
I don’t race these big races. I attend Local races I race, but those are manly roadraces. I saw a lot from Athe Traka this weekend. Would love to do that one year. 200k.
I don’t want to say what bike you should get but for road and gravel I would and have gone for GRX di2 2x12 48x31 11/36 fast enough for road but also easy enough for gravel. This is from a guy who has SRAM AXS on his road and MTB, so no Shimano fanboy here.
Hey Erik, if …”I race in Master category races for fun and am looking at qualifying for UCI Worlds in 2027 for Road and Gravel.” … I would check out the course / profile in order to find out, if they suit me, before buying a bike that should do both jobs.
In my book “For fun” means I’m dead serious, but I know I can’t do anything other than participate. I started this thread looking for a roadbike with a higher stack, to use on both road and gravel. I now understand that the gearing is my issue.
I don’t ride gravel one day, and road the next. I’m capable if I need to change parts on the drivetrain between the disciplines, but I do ride fast races where I need 54/52 in the front (shimano) so I need a 50 (on the road) in the front if I’m going for SRAM XPLR. On my MTB I use a 38 in the front, and I want more in the MTB races I do. So a 42-44 on a gravel bike would be right I think. At this point, I’m thinking of waiting a bit, look at all the new models, and try out som bikes when I have the opportunity.
It’s definitely smart to decide re 2-by or single beforehand. I’d say <50 % of gravel bikes allow 2-by setups. Especially those capable of fitting 50+ tires often are for single chainring use only.
I’ve got a Tarmac SL7 but recently added a Crux to the stable and I love it. The Tarmac is definitely faster - more aero and a lot more aggressive - but the Crux is no slouch and climbs great, super stiff but also compliant. Sometimes on descents or at the front of a fast pace line for a long time, I’ll miss the Tarmac, no doubt. But the difference is less than I anticipated. I’ve got 1x XPLR with 35 slick Pirellis on the Crux since I’m not doing super crazy gravel so that’s practically a road setup.
I would think for a crit, you would really miss the Tarmac, but for a road race that is rolling hills or climbs, it would not be nearly as much of a compromise. If I were you, I could imagine a Crux with two dedicated sets of wheels. Some real aero wheels with 28s or 30s for the road, and then a gravel wheelset with 40s or 45s. For extra credit, you could also change the cassette. I was surprised how well the 1x is on the road.
Ronan talks about this in a recent podcast - how a 1x is perfect - except when it ain’t. It depends on the type of riding you’ll be doing. I’m guessing if you are riding in the Alps then 2x is the way to go. If riding in Holland, probably a 1x would be perfect, maybe.
Local races I race, but those are manly roadraces. I saw a lot from Athe Traka this weekend. Would love to do that one year. 200k.