Not sure that “Pro Racing” is necessarily the best place to put this topic, but here goes…
Some of my riding buddies and I are wanting to go to France this July to catch a bit of the Tour - in particular, hoping to catch the two stages on Alpe d’Huez, and then scrambling up to Paris to watch either the climbs up the Montmartre or be on the Champs for the finish. Do any of you have any hints and tips to share about watching the Tour in person, particularly on an Alpine climb stage or in Paris on the final day? We’ll be either bringing or renting bikes with the intent of getting to the French Alps a few days ahead and riding some of the classic climbs like the Glandon and Galibier before the stages on the Alpe. Must do’s when watching the Tours, and things that are just impossible? Are there things not to forget to bring and things to leave home? Hoping that some of you EC writers who cover the Tour in person can offer up your years of experience too!
Be prepared for variable conditions….when we were on Ventoux in 2009, it was pretty damn cold and very windy most of the day. We spent the majority of time hunkered down against a guardrail, keeping out of the wind as best we could.
by the time the caravan started arriving, things warmed up and we were down to a t-shirt when the actual race arrived.
Having a fleece top and a GoreTex jacket saved the day.
We also brought those camping-style chairs that provide back support when you sit on the base. Easily packed and rolled up for when you are going up / down the mountain.
Somehow I missed Caley’s article back in October - great stuff - thanks!
Would still love additional thoughts, especially real specific, nitty gritty details. For example, while I would not think I could leave a bike without a really high security U-lock anywhere in Paris (and sounds like using a Lime bike is the way to go in the city), what about out riding in the Alps - is a lightweight Ottolock sufficient for a cafe or lunch stop? Do you end up locking your bike on the side of the course somewhere while you’re watching the race?
Beware of thieves - anything unattended might get pinched, for instance cycling shoes bungeed to a rear rack <1 metre away in Pau. Lightweight locks will be okay almost always - except when they’re not; I had a bike stolen in Stratford on Avon after zero problems elsewhere in Europe.
Last year I went to watch the final stage in person for the first time and loved it. I splurged and payed for the vip bleacher seats at the finish line. It was a great first experience however I would not pay to sit there again. I would recommend watching from somewhere on the side of the road. If you choose the Montmontre neighborhood you will need to get to get there well in advance to get a good spot. I had been told as early as 6hours beforehand.
Strongly recommend viewing in person. My wife and I went in 2024 and have vowed to return again in the not too distant future. It was an epic vacation. Pla d’Adet 2024.
My tips: Bring a decent sized backpack. We used a 35L Aer backpack for example. This can hold a change of clothes, plenty of water and food, and a blanket to sit on. You will basically be doing your own picnic on the side of the mountain. Expect weak cell signal that won’t allow streaming the race. Plan to wake up early and be to “your spot” at least 6 hours before the riders arrive. Bring layers. Plan for a very slow mountain descent with much stopping after the stage is over.
A friend and I stayed near Col d’Aspin last summer for the tour and had a lovely time spectating and riding in the area. I will second bringing a way to carry lots of stuff for an enjoyable picnic since you will be hanging out on the side of the road for a long time, especially if you want to summit and then drop down to spectate.
My typical huge backpack I use on my city bike made my aggressive road fit feel funny, so I just used a small burrito bag and loaded up the jersey pockets and brought huge water bottles. If I had been sensible enough to test ride earlier, I would have bought proper bikepacking bags.
Each year there is a ride guide that publishes the approximate time the racers and caravan go by. Worth studying.
Lastly, portable restrooms were overflowing so I recommend knowing your bathroom habits or bringing something like a WAG bag for waste just in case.
I guess the main thing to take into account is that around Bourg d’Oisans / Alpe d’Huez, it will be absolutely packed with people, so don’t stay too far from there (or plan for a lengthy ride home), there’ll be traffic, pedestrians, cyclists etc. everywhere.
Thanks all for the suggestions to date - a bit of an update - getting super stoked for this July. My group managed to reserve a chalet in Alpe d’Huez village for the week+ before and during the 2 stages which will finish there, and the stay includes the prior weekend when the L’Etape amateur event takes place riding the same route as Stage 20. I’m assuming driving up and down from the village will be challenging if not impossible both weekends (roads are definitely closed for L’Etape). We’re not part of the 15,000 registered for the L’Etape ride the weekend before, but we are bringing or have rent bike rentals already lined up for the duration.
First - anyone with L’Etape experience or knowledge? We’re not planning to do the whole route, but how are things organized for that event. With roads closed, without a bib, are we going to be able to still jump on the route and ride up the Glandon and then “backward” on the course, or ride “backward” on the course to the base of the Col d’Sarenne and back up to Alpe d’Huez village (likely hours ahead of the event riders)?
Next - which rides would you do during the week, either riding from the village knowing you’ll need to climb back up at the end, or driving with the bikes somewhere to ride?
Finally - watching the race itself - any specific thoughts and suggestions based on prior experience of staying on and watching on the Alpe - e.g. where would you watch the race if you were already at the top of the mountain in the village? Bike to a spot or just walk (since we’re already at the top)? Specific restaurants you like where we should be snagging reservations now?
We’re also planning to scoot from the Alpe back to Paris via Geneva on Sunday morning, hopefully in time to catch the last stage on Montmartre or the Champs. Other specific thoughts and suggestions based on experience ?
Getting on the Etape route without a bib is a big NO when the roads are closed. Riding backwards even less. If you’ve never done it you can’t imagine how long it takes to get everyone through from the fastest amateurs / retired pros, to the untrained slowest people just learning the hard way they shouldn’t have registered
From Huez you can just ride the Marmotte route the day before or after l’Étape, and rest on the sportive day, you’ll need it
On that day and on race day, just don’t consider driving, esp. from / to the top. It will just be impossible. I’d just choose one of the last corners and walk there.
Last stage of the Tour I wouldn’t spectate in Paris (but I live there and dislike crowds too much), I’d just choose on spot I jnow along the route, and ride back home in time to watch the finish on TV
Alpe D’Huez day is a real vibe. You can either go down on the mountain and mix with the crowd and soak up the atmosphere. You could probably ride but you’d be unable to for a long period before and after the race uses it. Or walk - depending on how far down from your hotel you go.
I stayed in the village in 2022. Spectating from our hotel, on the race route, gave us a nice view. Atmosphere was a bit lacking, but you mostly get to choose between those things. Most of the race finishes we visited - I couldn’t see a thing with the crowds and I’m over 190cm.
Ask yourself what you really want though? I love the Tour, but the truth is - the riders fly past in moments. That’s absolutely worth seeing and soaking in, but I wouldn’t make that my only goal on a trip. Personally, I loved riding the famous climbs. Our tour organiser brought us to many of them - but not when the race was there, because you can’t ride them then. I remember even leaving the Tour itinerary and going up Luz Ardiden when the race was on Hautacam (I think) - almost empty and it reminded me of CBS (?) coverage of the 1989 Tour. (could have facts mixed up there) Magic - but strictly speaking nothing to do with the race itself.
Linking to an article with some great ideas for rides in the area. Having ridden round there a lot myself, yes ride the famous climbs like the Galibier and Croix de Fer, but also look up some of the lesser known gems. My personal favourite as the best climb in the area is the col du sabot which is super remote at the top and offers amazing views down on to the col du Glandon summit approach, and if you are not put off by a little bit of gravel the col du solude opposite Alpe d’Huez is really lovely. Both are very quiet. Bring lights for the col du solude if you are riding the side from Bourg d’Oisans via Villard Notre Dame as there are couple of very dark unlit tunnels.
As an aside the cycling challenge blog site I linked to above, whilst no longer updated, is one of the very best resources for ride ideas in the French/Swiss/Italian alps.
-the balcony road which has already been mentioned is great. It starts at bend 6 in La Garde and drops you out in le Freney-d’Oisans at the foot of the Sarenne and Les Deux Alpes climbs.
-the Villard Reculas route up to Alpe d’Huez is worth doing. This brings you out in Huez village. Alternatively if you just want to have a hit out on the 21 bends while you are there and are staying in Alpe d’Huez then ride down into the valley this way. The ridge road to pas de la confession between Huez village and Villard Reculas is great. When you get into the valley below it’s mostly bike path into Bourg d’Oisans
-the col de sarenne is a lovely climb. In terms of the panorama much nicer than the main climb up to Alpe d’Huez in my view but obviously not as famous from pro racing so it doesn’t get the crowds normally.
-remember you can ride higher than Alpe D’Huez itself up to lac besson which is normally deserted even when the town itself is busy
Sorry to be a bit late to the party here. Writing from Foix, where stage 4 will finish this year. This may be stating the obvious, but I hope you’ve already secured accommodations. All the rooms in Foix and nearby were booked within hours of the official course announcement. If one doesn’t mind traveling, one can get rooms in Toulouse for example, and take the train to Foix. Bikes are allowed on SNCF regional trains IF you reserve space ahead. Have fun!
Hi William! I’ll also be in the Alpe d’Huez area for the Tour. I sent you a DM in case you have any interest in riding or otherwise meeting up! -Rob
For something like Alpe d’Huez or Le Ventoux if I went back I would just want to go ride it for fun when the Tour wasn’t there and instead go with a city/village place to watch. I would want my ride up those historic mountains to be the best ride it could possibly be, and Le Tour being there would not make my ride better.
If you want a low stress really easy option that avoids sitting on the side of the road you can basically just drive/ride into that city and walk to the course at the appropriate time just like the locals do.
The riders coming by is just kind of a short duration thing that goes by fast. It will last longer on a climb, but it’s still short in terms of the day and even watching the Caravan go by. As an American who had only watched on TV or followed online I didn’t understand the whole in person experience at all. If you look at the whole thing it’s basically a party, the caravan coming by selling souvenirs and building excitement, then finally the Peloton comes through in a climactic event and then it’s basically all over. Even what is going on in the race that day seemed to take a back seat, it was hard to follow along unless you stare at your phone or you’re fluent in French and there happen to be announcers/speakers in the area. It’s like the actual race is underwhelming compared to the entire experience of being there and enjoying the whole French atmosphere.
We watched in Colmar one year. Show up, enjoy the village, had lunch, wandered over less than an hour before the Peloton came through, got right up to the barrier, bought some souvenirs, got out, enjoyed the village a little more, and then made an easy escape from the area. The village itself was of course amazing, and Colmar was super cool as an American because Frederic Bartholdi was from Colmar. He is the sculptor that designed the statue of Liberty, and Colmar has a smaller version of the statue. A super cool concrete example of a shared ideal.
The Souvenirs weren’t that great… junky water bottles and I bought an ugly yellow T-Shirt that I didn’t wear that much. All just emblazoned with the tour logo. Somehow buying them was still super cool though. I’ve been to lots of bike races in the US as a rider or fan, and it was just incredibly novel that somebody is driving ahead of the race and behind it selling souvenirs.
Stand in a section that is slow speed and/or is repeated as they all fly past at 50km/ph+ and you glimpse them. Also, look out for some bottles discarded as they’re free and are a cool flex.
But I definitely understand wanting to ride the Galibier, Glandon, Croix-de-Fer, Madeleine, Iseran, Izoard, Alpe d’Huez climbs 
