There’s a lot more that needs agreeing / standardising around the method itself, to ensure replicable, comparable results across tyre brands year on year. For example, pick one bike/wheelset, per tyre size, and use that forever. That’s just one of probably a hundred variables needing defining.
I don’t doubt the utter cat-herding s*it fight to get ‘the industry’ to agree on a protocol. Whoever comes out worst will immediately claim it’s bunk. Etc.
The Chung Method, when done properly, gives consistent, repeatable results that accounts for variances such as weather, etc. it is, to date, the best method available for real world testing.
John Kassarch has done an excellent job at eliminating all the variables you noted, as have others.
I’ve used the GKs in various sizes (though smaller and 700C) for years and quite liked them. Many complain they are fragile, but I didn’t have a lot of issues and rode them on a wide range of terrain, including technical singletrack and chunky crushed gravel. Admittedly I sometimes used the plus version on the rear initially, but since I had very few punctures I later switched to the nicer rolling non-plus.
The only significant drawback I found is that when riding at lower pressures on technical stuff, after getting back onto hardpack or asphalt the “bouncing” of the rear gets pretty annoying so I’d often stop and pump it up a bit.
I’m a bit disappointed in the new lineup has not really improved much in performance, at least based on bicyclerollingresistance reviews.
“Managing” variables. Nothing is truly eliminated, as error always exists. I agree the Chung Method is just great, though, at providing reasonable estimates.
Can anyone tell me the best (cheapest, most reliable/credible) place in Australia to get Thunderburts and Shwalbe G One RX Pro (45mm) G One R? I’m keen to try all of these based on suggestions here.
Only one tread pattern means it’s is the wrong one for at least 50% of courses, and useless for the muddy 2/3 of the year in the UK’s “gravel”.
Ah yes. Here’s the thing; the only time you actually need knobs is in deep mud, on wet grass or inclined slick surfaces. Otherwise a supple slick at low pressure will do amazingly well. Far better than most people realise - or are prepared to push their bikes to the point of ‘finding out’ (myself included).
A semi-slick with a small knob and defined transition is the worst of both worlds. Many are so far out from the centreline that they don’t bite until the bike’s close to 45° - which is an angle most people don’t get to on tarmac, let alone gravel.
I have two RH-shod wheelsets: 700x55 slick and 650x55 knobbly. There’s honestly not that much between them, speed or grip wise. I ride the 650’s mostly because I can fit mudguards under them. The speed difference between them on a 40k tarmac loop I ride often is within the margin of error of a: my legs on any given day and b: every other confounding factor.
Can you share with us how you have come to this conclusion?
That is just factually incorrect. If you try riding a slick tire on our gravel trails at the speeds we ride them, you will slide out in any number of the turns (ask me how I know 
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Our trails are hard packed with “kitty litter” on the top and slick tires are like riding on marbles.
I’ve repeated dry gravel routes on my crux with 35mm slicks GP5ks and 42mm sworks Pathfinders. Side knobs, even small ones, definitely make a difference when cornering at speed.
That’s not such a simple question @wade_wallace … BikeInn has been the only reliable place for Thunderburt 2.1’s. Not sure about Schwalbe
Quote a lot of riding the same trails over and over, comparing different tyres for review purposes. I appreciate I’m a sample of n=1 here.
So your knobs are harder than stone, and are cutting through? Knobs help in mud / soft grass/dirt, because they create an indentation. A knob on a hard surface does nothing.
This article pretty much covers it: Gravel Myths (5): Side Knobs for Cornering Traction? – Rene Herse Cycles - noting that all the people quoted in it weren’t paid to do so.
This is why we also need independent testing of traction claims 
No, the spacing on the knobs give someplace for the skree on top to go so that you can them get more rubber on the hard pack below.
This is basic tire stuff…..
That’s what doesn’t compute. If the gravel is so small that it can fill the space between knobs, what happens once they’re full? Does it only work when the gravel is only as deep as the tread? If it’s deeper, then your tyre turned into a slick and will slide on the deeper gravel? I appreciate there may be a unique gravel where the usual laws don’t apply.
“Mud/soft grass/dirt” and “hard surface” describes less than 20% of gravel riding, in most locations. “Hard surface” is just smooth pavement.
There’s a whole world of surface types between those that represent the other 80%.
I’m curious. What trails do you ride where you only encounter mud, soft grass, pure dirt and pavement?
Since tires are constantly rotating and moving along the ground, there is always new space available.
And no one said that the space between the treads was “full”. I said the space gives some place for the skree to go.
Again, this is pretty basic stuff.
Oh it’s all over the place. As it will be for most people. I might do 20 miles of tarmac, then a half-mile of mud.
Or 10 miles of fine gravel, followed by 5 miles of fist-sized rocks, followed by 5 miles of tarmac.
The great thing about the RH knobblies is they are fast AF on tarmac. And there’s no transition as they are a full tyre. Apart from to get mudguards on, I probably ride them more because on the hard stuff there’s no noticeable downside, and I’m good to go on mud / grass.
I guess you’ve found the singular location where RH tires outperform everything else - great!
Indeed, thanks. I can’t find the Thunderburt 2.1’s anywhere but BikeInn. Wasn’t sure if they’re reputable or not.