Thank you for the thoughts during the last Ask a Wrench segment on the question about my friend’s persistently breaking left XTR pedal. He has taken away your thoughts for consideration - including more routinely washing or rinsing the bike.
To clear up some points, the pedals are bought or warranty exchanged from reputable sources, either an LBS or one of our major US online cycling stores. There is no stress put on the left pedal during storage and the bike is only occasionally transported in a rack (a Kuat).
I have included the pictures you requested and would appreciate any additional thoughts you might have. I’m assuming that corrosion and cracking is the root cause to the failure. With that assumption, it would be easier and more sustainable for this use case to have a more corrosion resistant mountain style pedal. Are there any?
My friend will be taking your advice about drilling holes in his Sidi mountain shoes.
That’s just wild! I think Dave mentioned it on the pod that it could be the combination of salt plus heat from car exhaust that would accelerate that corrosion (which seemed the most plausible), but if you’re saying it’s not transported on a rack much that shoots that theory. The new Wolftooth MarkZero pedals use Ti, so that might be an option, and also they are fully rebuildable (or most of their stuff is). If I was your “friend” I would email Wolftooth, send them the pictures, and ask them if they think their pedals would hold up to this sort of corrosive conditions. Might be a fun challenge for them! Good luck. I loved living in Houston!!
WOW! I heard that ask a wrench segment and never imagined the pedals would look that bad.
I can’t offer much knowledge on this but I can say this: A couple of years ago a leaking container of pool chemicals caused everything in my garage that could rust to rust badly. The XT pedals on my gravel bike were fine.
Recommendation from someone without the qualification of Dave or Zach, but rides in hot, humid and sometimes wet conditions. A silicone spray (like WD-40 or my preference is Maxima SC1) is a great way to protect components from this kind of corrosion. They will have give some level of protection help Mae cleaning post ride 10x easier. I race XC and generally before any race give my whole bike a once over with SC1 and for muddy races will spray down my pedals specifically and even the bottom of my shoes to help lessen moisture intrusion. Just a thought, hope this helps
I ride much cheaper pedals in salt and terrible conditions all winter and they are fine. I do rinse them off quite frequently, but I can’t imagine what level of neglect and Mars-like weather conditions would be required to get to that level of destruction.
It is stored in an unairconditioned garage hanging by the top tube from extended hooks in the wall. You can imagine how hot a garage can get in Houston in July.
The other pedal looks similar but it has never been the right pedal to fail, likely due to the left foot is the primary one to unclip at a stop. Stops are frequent in this urban area so unclip/clip-in is also frequent.
Hence, looking for options that have metallurgy that can withstand the conditions. Full 316 SS, Ti? Or, the idea of a spray on protectant - maybe BoeShield T-9?
While those of us who follow a podcast like “Geek Warning” are more predisposed to higher bike cleaning and maintenance, there are our fellow cyclists that are not. Is there a purchased option that doesn’t require embedding a more difficult behavior change? Or is it just the cost (to some degree Shimano’s) that must be continually paid?
if in the end, there isn’t a purchased option and it is all about maintenance behavior, then it is a clear message that as we know may or may not be heeded.
IIRC, this bike is mostly used for road riding? If so, looking in the periphery of the pictures, there is a lot of dirt and buildup on the pedals, cranks, and frame. Even just wiping down the bike and spraying off the pedals would go a long way to extend the life of things, I think.
Given that it’s the aluminum pedal body that broke (as opposed to the steel jaws), the easiest thing to do is purchase an SPD compatible pedal set for a brand that uses non-metallic bodies. The Look X-Track Race come to mind.
The only time I have seen anything close to this was when a customer drove a couple hundred miles with his road bike on trunk-mount rack. The cars exhaust - a BMW - fried the C-Record crank anodizing. With a bit of Simichrome and elbow grease, it buffed out and lasted a number more years.
I’m iun agreement with Gregory. That it’s a “…persistently breaking left XTR pedal…” hints of something the user is or is not doing.
Holy crap, that’s some serious corrosion! I can’t imagine living in Houston, TX and having that issue. I hope your friend finds a solution from all the suggestions!
This doesn’t address the (horrible) corrosion issue. But in an urban environment, I put the Shimano PD-EH500 (or the new PD-EH510) pedals on. That way, until I get out of town I can stay clipped in on one side and use the flat side for the shoe I would normally have to unclip. Once out of town, I clip into both.
Thank you for all the ideas and suggestions. I have relayed them on with the chief one being - more washing. The message was received that barring an equipment suggestion from the Chief Geeks and echoing what his riding group has said - washing more frequently is a likely best solution - but I’m not sure it has been embedded. The other suggestions of using a lower tier pedal will likely be taken up as soon as the warranty expires.
I can’t speak to the state of the friend’s shoes; but, I spent 9 months in Houston and it nearly destroyed my road shoes. Actually, my cleat bolts rusted into the nuts inside the sole and destroyed them. I used a liberal amount of anti-seize during installation and it made NO difference. After my repair, I would exercise the cleat bolts after every ride.