I’m having difficulty keeping a steel pump peg adhered to a titamium headtube. I’ve used an epoxy mix, and JB Weld specifically. However the Zefal HP pumphead with the recess has a tendency to sheer the pump peg from the headtube wall. I’ve carefully cleaned both surfaces, let the “weld” stand for 24 hours, and yet this process has not succeeded
This doesn’t seem like the kind of thing that could work. A pump peg probably doesn’t have enough surface for epoxy bonding to be feasible. Additionally, mixing steel and titanium seems like it has the potential (pun intended) for galvanic corrosion.
Do you live somewhere with a Ti frame builder nearby? I wonder if welding a TI pump peg is a trivial task for someone with the tools and experience.
I get that having a pump peg on the head tube is the cleanest way to go. Nick is right on point with all the risks. Bonding a steel peg, or any other material to Ti is going to have the same outcome. Besides trying to find a Ti framebuilder to weld on a peg, you could go with the old-school Zefel plastic pump holder. In your case it’d probably need to be mounted on the top tube at the head tube junction.
My bet is that hunk of plastic will run counter to your esthetics. I get that. There’s another option to consider: rechargeable mini pump. I recently quit carrying a pump altogether after a situation of a bad pump and crummy CO2 adaptor. It’s way better IMOP since its faster than a hand pump and will handle multiple flats. Bet it’s cheaper than paying for a peg to be mounted, too.
I agree that this is unlikely to work well but it would be improved with good surface prep and epoxy choice, assuming the pump peg is stainless steel. If it is plain steel you have no chance, galvanic issues will arise.
Surface prep on titanium is quite easy: clean, abrade with 180 grit sandpaper, rinse, etch with alkaline peroxide (1M H2O2, 1M NaOH) until surface etch is visible, rinse with distilled water, dry with clean air or rinse with ethanol followed by acetone, bond within 30 minutes.
Surface prep on stainless is more difficult: I use a hot sulphuric / oxalic acid etch followed by a chromic acid desmut but this is very hazardous and difficult to dispose of (hexavalent chromium, anyone?). You could try passivating paste (hydrofluoric acid / nitric acid, available from welding shops) but it’s less effective and almost as nasty.
You are probably better off getting a ti pump peg so you only have to do one set of surface prep.
Finally, use a better epoxy, 3M DP420 is excellent for metals.
Back in the day, I just used a velcro strap to keep the other end of the frame pump in place on a frame without a peg. But of course you won’t get full style points for that, I suppose.
You could get a pump peg made that has a much larger surface contact area. If the surface area is two or three times the area of the pump peg itself, I think that should do it.
Second option would be a bit scarier to do: Drill and thread a hole in the head tube, and screw something in to act as the peg. Head tubes are generally pretty thick, risk would be low. But it’s still a risk.
It was always a bit of a bodge, but that gap between the top tube and the pump at the front end looked shit. Limp even. Stinner is welds just up the coast. But, I reckon they are pumping with their own bikes. But, good call, I’ll ask them for a reference. Thanks, Nick.
You’re right on about the aesthetic. Two other bikes on hangers by this ones have pumps paint matched by JB in San Diego. I’m with Rome on this one- great for topping up at departure. I’ve only had one pump fail on the road, where the top seal of the Silca Imperio just blew off into my hand. Cracked the body of the pump. These day, I just carry three tubes, Park tire boots, and a maintained pump. It’ll be interesting to see how these will continue to develop.
Bold. It’s a 2000 Schwinn Paramount made by Serotta. So, it’s a 1” head tube and a short one at that. I’d have to consult before drilling. Again, thank you and everyone for such varied suggestions.
