Connex links are great, I use a variety of them and they last forever
I did about 50K Km on 3 chains swapped out and re-waxed about every 300K. (Someone can do the maths) I only replaced a 2 quick links, One of which failed due to user error and the other replaced because it felt a bit loose.
To add some context, I am no longer racing (and even then I was no sprinter) . but I do occasionally jump on the pedals to make an orange light or escape a magpie ![]()
On my MTBs I have done similar practice and have broke more standard links (just one) than quick links
I always carry spare quick links. Like mentioned else where I have also used ones from AliExpress without issue.
Correct orientation
I always mentally remember this as “sad face at the bottom of the chain, happy face at the top”. Though why you’d try to put it on, on the top of the drivetrain is anyone’s guess.
I’ve purchased them from Modern Bike and Bikesmiths
I’ve used the KMC 11s reusable missing link for years. You can reuse them as many times as you like for the life of the chain. They’re included in the package with x11 KMC chains. If there’s a R stamped on them they are reuse-able. The single use are stamped S. They do become looser the more it’s used, so it’s just meant for the life of a single chain.
Thanks a lot everyone for your input
I’ve ordered a Connex quick link now, curious to test them, see how I get on.
For clarity, KMC says their reusable links can be reused 3–5 times.
With any quick link, you should replace them a couple times over the life of the chain. They wear faster than the rest of the chain, as one pin is swiveling in the slot of the other plate, and the surface area is narrow. This is one reason why Shimano was so resistant to coming out with a quick link in the first place.
Different brands of links have different rates of wear. I find the KMC ones to wear quite quickly. A chain checker measured across a span including the quick link will often show more wear than when measuring elsewhere. It’s hard to see with the go/no-go type gauges, you need to use a tool that has a progressive “drop”.