I’ve been using the Magene PES P515 power meter all year and loved it so far, but over the course of the last month I started to develop a clicking on my bike that slowly got worse as I tried to find the source of, until I found other people with the same issue on the Magene PES and learned it was the interface of the lockring and the spider. Although some people online seem to have found permanent or near-permanent solutions in just retightening the lockring, I’ve tried it 3 times now and it’s slowly come back over the course of the first hour of riding after. I’m getting it about as tight as possible (they want 35-40nm which is pretty tight) and while it seemed a bit loose the first time I tightened it, the last few times it has still seemed quite snug and still creaked. I’ve started messahing Magene about if it could be a warranty issue, but has anyone here seen this issue or can recommend a solution?
If you have a thread in bottom bracket - check if that is tight. Had a similar issue on my gravel bike. Kept thinking it was the cranks but one of the cups had come loose.
Thanks for the advice, but it is a press fit BB which feels fine. The only thing that shuts it up (temporarily) is removing and retightening the crankset’s lockring that holds the spider tight.
Have you tried some threadlocker on the threads?
I’ve never used loctite before but I just bought some and will try it. Should I use it like I would use grease on the threads?
Use blue not red. Are you sure it’s actually coming loose? Have you tried checking the torque after? Do they recommend anti seize on the spline?
The first time I had the issue it was barely finger tight, but I haven’t let it get that bad since. They want 35-40nm and don’t say anything about grease or loctite, but others online have reported they needed loctite to silence it.
There’s a discussion about this on the P515 thread on Chinertown. No joy there.
Clean and degrease the threads before using threadlocker.
Magene got back to me and suggested I try greasing the interface between the spider and the crank arm too. I’ll try that, but I also asked them if they’d recommend thread lock on the lockring if that doesn’t work. When I take it off after one ride it doesn’t seem as tight as when I put it on, although it’s still somewhat tight. I imagine if I just kept riding it it’ll get quite loose
I would do anti seize on the spline interface but not a lot, and none on the actual locking interface itself. Try that at full torque and see how it goes. Retorque once and continue to check. Loctite should not be required, however, if all else fails..
I’ve had a similar issue with two separate Rotor cranksets that develop a clicking sound at the top of the pedal stroke. Mine is solved by pulling the crankset when I wash the bike and cleaning out all the grit between the crank/BB interface, then lightly re-greasing/re-installing.
I mention here because it sounds similar but appears to have a different root cause and I’m curious if you (or anyone else) have experienced similar. It’s a little annoying to have to pull the cranksets and clean/re-grease every couple of months, but it does seem to shut them up for a while.
It is ridiculous and I’d chuck it if I had to do that.
Same. In fact I’ve got rid of numerous bits of kit for exactly this reason.
Noise = The Devil.
Well I guess they are aware of the issue, because Magene agreed to replace the entire power meter minus the left crank arm when I contacted them. Good that they’re standing by their product.